How to Wash and Care for Vintage Clothing: The Complete Guide

Vintage clothing lasts because someone looked after it. That's the whole point of buying it, and it's also the reason most people are wary of secondhand in the first place. You don't know how something was cared for before it reached you.

We clean everything professionally before it goes live, so you're not starting from a bad place. But keeping a piece looking right is up to you after that. Here's how to actually do it, material by material.

Wool knitwear

Wool doesn't need washing as often as people think. Airing it out after wear removes most odour without a wash cycle. When it does need cleaning, hand wash in cold water with a wool-specific detergent, or use a machine's wool cycle inside a mesh bag. Never wring it. Lay it flat on a towel to dry, reshaping gently while damp. Hanging a wet wool jumper stretches it permanently under its own weight. Store folded, not on a hanger, and use cedar blocks rather than mothballs to keep insects away without the smell.

Leather jackets

Leather doesn't go in a washing machine, full stop. Wipe down dirt with a damp cloth and mild soap, then let it air dry away from direct heat. A radiator or direct sun will crack leather over time. Condition it every six months or so with a proper leather balm to keep it supple; leather that's never conditioned eventually dries out and cracks at stress points like elbows and cuffs. If a jacket has a strong odour, hanging it in fresh air for a few days does more than any product.

Wax jackets (Barbour and similar)

Never dry clean a wax jacket. The solvents strip the wax coating entirely. Clean with cold water and a soft brush or sponge only, no detergent. Over time the wax wears thin at friction points (cuffs, collar, the front where you zip it) and the jacket will need re-waxing, which isn't a flaw, it's routine maintenance. A tin of proper reproofing wax costs around €15-20 and the process takes an evening: warm the jacket slightly, apply wax sparingly with a cloth, then let it cure for 24 hours somewhere warm.

Technical outerwear (Gore-Tex, shells)

The membrane inside a Gore-Tex shell lasts for years and doesn't need special care. What wears out is the DWR (durable water repellent) coating on the outer fabric. You'll notice water stops beading and starts soaking in instead. Wash in a technical wash-in product (not regular detergent, which clogs the membrane) and tumble dry on low heat, which actually reactivates the DWR coating. For heavily worn coatings, a wash-in or spray-on reproofing treatment restores water repellency for a few euros.

Denim

Wash denim as little as possible: that's not a shortcut, it's how the fading and character that make vintage denim desirable actually develop. When you do wash it, turn it inside out, use cold water, and skip the dryer; heat sets creases and can shrink older denim unpredictably. Spot-clean stains rather than running a full wash cycle for minor marks.

Nylon and sportswear (track jackets, shells)

Machine wash cold on a gentle cycle, inside out to protect any printed logos or embroidery from friction. Air dry rather than tumble dry. Heat can warp screen prints and shrink some vintage nylon blends. Avoid fabric softener, which leaves a residue on technical and coated fabrics.

Cotton sweatshirts and tees

The most forgiving category, but still worth some care on older pieces. Wash cold, inside out, and air dry when possible. Tumble drying is the single biggest cause of shrinkage on vintage cotton, which was often cut generously to begin with and doesn't need help running smaller.

The general rule

When in doubt, wash less and wash colder. Vintage fabric has already survived decades; the fastest way to damage it now is aggressive modern washing. Hot water, high spin speeds, harsh detergent. Every piece we sell has already been professionally cleaned once. After that, gentle and infrequent care keeps it looking the way it did when it arrived.

Browse the full collection, or read more about what happens to every piece before it ships.

Frequently asked questions

How often should I wash vintage clothing?
Less than you'd think. Airing out often removes odour without a wash. Wash only when there's visible dirt or after several wears for closer-fitting items.

Can I dry clean a wax jacket?
No. Dry cleaning solvents strip the wax coating. Clean with cold water and a soft brush only.

Does Gore-Tex stop working over time?
The membrane itself lasts for years. What wears out is the surface DWR coating, which can be restored with a wash-in or spray-on treatment.

Is it normal for a wax jacket to need re-waxing?
Yes: it's routine maintenance, not a defect. Most jackets need it every year or two depending on use.