Burberry is a strange case in counterfeiting. Most fake-detection guides focus on logos, but Burberry's most recognisable mark — the Nova check — is also the easiest thing for a counterfeiter to print convincingly. The real tells are elsewhere.
I authenticate Burberry professionally, and this is what I actually check, in the order I check it.
1. Start with the label wording, not the check
Before anything else, look at the brand label. In 1999 the company dropped the "s" from its name — pieces made before that read "Burberrys", everything after reads "Burberry". This single word instantly places a garment in an era, and it's a detail counterfeiters frequently get wrong because they're copying whichever label image they found online, not tracking the actual timeline.
If a piece is styled and worn like something from the 80s but the label says "Burberry" with no s, that's worth a second look.
2. Check pattern alignment across seams
This is the check most people skip, and it's the most reliable one. On a genuine piece, the Nova check continues correctly across seams and pocket edges — the pattern lines up on both sides of a seam the way a matched plaid should. On fakes, the pattern frequently jumps, shifts, or doesn't align at the shoulder and side seams.
Cutting fabric to match a check pattern across every seam costs more fabric and more labour. It's exactly the kind of production step counterfeiters skip to save money.
3. The weight and hand-feel of the gabardine
Thomas Burberry invented gabardine specifically for weatherproofing, and the genuine cloth has a distinct density — it should feel substantial, almost stiff when new, softening only with wear. Counterfeit trenches are frequently made from a lighter, softer cotton blend that drapes too easily. If a "vintage" trench feels like a soft cotton jacket rather than a structured weatherproof coat, that's a mismatch.
4. Buttons and hardware
Genuine Burberry buttons are horn or a horn-effect resin, with weight and a slightly matte finish, usually stamped with the brand name or the equestrian knight logo depending on era. Fakes often use lightweight plastic buttons that feel hollow, or hardware with a font that's subtly wrong — too thin, too bold, or spaced incorrectly. Check the buckle on a trench coat belt too: genuine hardware has a specific weight and a clean, even finish.
5. The lining
On trench coats specifically, check whether the check lining matches the era and construction of the shell. A mismatched lining — wrong shade of the check, wrong weight of fabric — is a sign either of a fake or of a replaced lining, which should be disclosed by any seller.
6. Interior labels and care tags
Look at the font, print sharpness, and stitching of the interior label. Genuine labels are sewn in cleanly with even stitching. Counterfeit labels often show slightly blurred printing, an inconsistent font weight, or a label that's glued rather than properly sewn.
7. Stitch count and finishing on the collar
The trench coat collar is one of the most complex parts of the garment to construct well. Check stitch density and whether the undercollar lies flat without puckering. Rushed counterfeit production shows up here first — loose threads, uneven topstitching, or a collar that doesn't sit right.
Why this stays difficult in practice
None of these checks are foolproof on their own. What matters is whether they're all consistent with each other and with the claimed era. A genuine-looking check pattern on the outside means very little if the label wording doesn't match the era, or if the lining is wrong. Counterfeiters usually get one or two details right and miss the rest.
That's why every Burberry piece we sell is verified through LegitApp, one of the world's leading authentication platforms, and I personally assess it on top of that — checking exactly the points above against the claimed era. If a piece can't be verified, it doesn't go into the shop. And because guarantees are easy to say: you get 30-day returns on everything with us.
Browse our verified Burberry collection, or explore Barbour and Classic for similar British heritage pieces.
Frequently asked questions
What's the fastest way to date a Burberry piece?
The label. "Burberrys" (with an s) means pre-1999; "Burberry" means 1999 or later. It's not a complete authentication on its own, but it's the quickest starting point.
Can you tell a fake from the check pattern alone?
Not reliably — printing a convincing check is easy. Pattern alignment across seams is a better signal than the pattern itself.
Is older Burberry more likely to be genuine?
Not automatically, but older pieces tend to have heavier gabardine and better seam-matching, which makes certain fakes easier to spot by comparison.
What if I already own a piece and I'm unsure?
Have it assessed by an authentication service. With us, 30-day returns apply regardless — if you're unsure about something bought from us, send it back.